Fundamentals · Fundamentals
Fabric Care Symbols Explained: A Trade Buyer's Cheat Sheet
Care symbols on an upholstery spec sheet compress a dense matrix of performance data into a handful of pictograms. This cheat sheet decodes the ACT icons and cleaning codes the design trade actually needs on the job.
What fabric care symbols actually tell a specifier
Care symbols compress test results into pictograms that print cleanly on a 3 inch memo sample or a two-page spec sheet. For the design trade, they are the fastest read of whether a fabric clears the performance bar for a given application.
A symbol is not a marketing claim. It references a documented test method, typically ASTM, AATCC, NFPA, or CAL TB. If a mill prints an ACT icon, the fabric must meet the minimum threshold for that icon in the contract category.
On a Michael Jon Designs memo, you will see the cleaning code, abrasion rating, and any applicable contract icons printed on the back label. That is the data a workroom, a hospitality buyer, or a specifier needs before committing yardage.
The ACT contract icon set
Six pictograms the contract trade references daily
The Association for Contract Textiles publishes six voluntary performance icons. A fabric marked with an ACT icon has been tested to that standard and met the minimum.
- Flammability: passes CAL TB 117-2013, NFPA 260 Class I, or UFAC Class I for component-level cigarette ignition.
- Wet and dry crocking: AATCC-8 color transfer under rubbing, minimum grade 4 dry and 3 wet for contract.
- Colorfastness to light: AATCC-16, minimum grade 4 at 40 hours for contract upholstery.
- Physical properties: pill, brush, break resistance per ASTM D3597, D3511, and D5034.
- Abrasion: ASTM D4157 Wyzenbeek (15,000 double-rubs minimum for general contract, 30,000 for heavy-duty) or ASTM D4966 Martindale (20,000 cycles general contract, 40,000 heavy-duty).
- Seam slippage: ASTM D4034, minimum 25 pounds at a 0.25 inch seam opening.
Cleaning codes at a glance
The W, S, WS, and X code system is maintained jointly by the Joint Industry Committee and echoed in ACT guidance. It tells maintenance what may touch the face cloth.
| Code | Meaning | Permitted agents | Avoid |
|---|---|---|---|
| W | Water-based cleaning approved | Distilled water, water-based foam, mild detergent | Solvents, dry-clean fluids |
| S | Solvent cleaning only | Petroleum or dry-cleaning solvent (mineral spirits, perchloroethylene) | Water, water-based foam |
| WS | Water or solvent approved | Water-based foam or solvent as appropriate | Saturating the backing; abrasive brushes |
| X | Vacuum or light brushing only | HEPA vacuum, soft horsehair brush | Any liquid, any solvent, any detergent |
Abrasion pictograms and what they mean in yardage
Abrasion icons show the test method and sometimes the rating. A Wyzenbeek icon with 50,000 alongside indicates 50,000 double-rubs under ASTM D4157 Method 1 with a cotton duck abradant.
Martindale cycles are the European equivalent. 40,000 cycles is a common heavy-duty contract threshold under ASTM D4966 or BS EN ISO 12947.
Double-rubs and cycles are not directly interchangeable. A rough approximation is one Martindale cycle equals one Wyzenbeek double-rub, but correlation varies by fiber and construction.
Related readingDeep dive: Wyzenbeek vs MartindaleHow the two tests differ and which to prioritize by application.Lightfastness, pilling, and crocking symbols
Lightfastness is reported under AATCC-16 on a gray scale from 1 (severe change) to 5 (no change). Contract typically requires grade 4 at 40 hours. Hospitality drapery or fabric facing a south window may require grade 4 at 60 hours.
Pilling uses ASTM D3511 (brush pill) or ASTM D3512 (random tumble), also graded 1 to 5. A grade of 3 or better is standard for seating.
Crocking measures dye transfer under AATCC-8 (dry) and AATCC-116 (wet). Dark saturated shades often show lower wet crocking, which matters if the fabric will see body oils, rain, or maintenance.
Brushing, seam slippage, and break strength
A brush icon indicates the fabric has passed a surface abrasion test distinct from Wyzenbeek or Martindale. This matters for cut-pile velvets and chenilles where the face yarn can crush or shift.
Seam slippage is a quiet failure mode that workrooms watch closely. A fabric at 25 pounds per ASTM D4034 is fine for a tight pull; a 15 pound fabric may need backing or reinforcement at stress points.
Break strength is reported in pounds-force under ASTM D5034 grab or D5035 strip method. Contract seating typically wants 50 pounds warp and weft minimum.
Quick-reference table for spec sheets
| Attribute | Standard | Typical residential threshold | Typical contract threshold |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wyzenbeek abrasion | ASTM D4157 | 15,000 double-rubs | 30,000 double-rubs heavy-duty |
| Martindale abrasion | ASTM D4966 | 20,000 cycles | 40,000 cycles heavy-duty |
| Lightfastness | AATCC-16 | Grade 4 at 20 hours | Grade 4 at 40 hours |
| Dry crocking | AATCC-8 | Grade 4 | Grade 4 |
| Wet crocking | AATCC-116 | Grade 3 | Grade 3 |
| Pilling | ASTM D3511 | Grade 3 | Grade 4 |
| Seam slippage | ASTM D4034 | 25 lb at 0.25 in | 25 lb at 0.25 in |
| Flammability | CAL TB 117-2013 / NFPA 260 | CAL 117 pass | NFPA 260 Class I |
Reading an MJD memo back label
On a Michael Jon Designs memo, the back label prints fiber content, cleaning code, abrasion rating, and any ACT or flame certifications. If a pattern in the Capsule Collection is rated for contract hospitality, that appears on the label alongside the run width and pattern repeat.
When a symbol is missing, it is missing for a reason. If the fabric has not been tested to that standard, the mill does not print the icon.
Related readingBrowse the Capsule CollectionCore in-stock patterns with full spec sheets and performance data.Frequently asked questions
What do the W, S, WS, and X cleaning codes mean?
W permits water-based cleaning, S permits solvent-only, WS permits either, and X restricts maintenance to vacuuming or light brushing. The code is set by the fabric mill based on the face cloth and any applied finish.
Are ACT symbols required or voluntary?
ACT icons are a voluntary industry standard. A mill may test to ACT thresholds and print the icons, but there is no regulatory requirement. Contract specifiers typically require the icons as a minimum for qualified bids.
How do I convert Wyzenbeek double-rubs to Martindale cycles?
There is no exact conversion. A rough approximation is one Martindale cycle to one Wyzenbeek double-rub, but test methods, abradants, and fiber responses differ. Specify to the test your project requires rather than converting.
What lightfastness grade should I spec for a south-facing hospitality window?
For high UV exposure, specify AATCC-16 grade 4 or better at 60 hours. For drapery in a suite-level guest room, grade 4 at 40 hours is typically adequate.
Can an X-code fabric be used on commercial seating?
An X code means no liquid or solvent may touch the face cloth. It is rare on contract seating because janitorial protocols typically require wet or solvent cleaning. Re-spec to a W, S, or WS fabric for high-traffic seating.
Put this into practice
Request samples or open a Print Studio conversation.
Michael Jon Designs is trade-only. Our sales team confirms spec, availability, and pricing on every project.
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